.
.
"Thanks
for the best vacation we've ever had.
The trip left
us feeling enriched, productive, and most important, relaxed. Sounds
like an impossible combination.
You've expanded
our lives. Hope to join you again,"
Dale & Shobha,
New York, NY (Jan '06 trip)
|
Sunrise at Brandywine
Bay, Tortola, BVI. January '06. (Steve Card, photo)
"This
was probably the best vacation I've ever taken."
- John Gugliotta, New York, NY.
March '06 trip.
"I had some of
the best moments of my life on our sailing vessel "Near Enough"
- from the best night's sleep (I slept through a squall), to sitting on
the bow of the boat in contemplation, while gazing at the stunning horizon
lines and the distant islands. While snorkeling, I experienced amazing
underwater biodiversity, renewing my appreciation and respect for
nature. I enjoyed the trip immensely as well as the company of my shipmates
who really added to the pleasure of the whole trip. I can't wait to visit
this area again next year and hopefully take more trips with Captain Steve
to other parts of the world."
- Lydia Furuta, New York, NY.
March '06 BVI trip.
SHOW
ME THE VIDEO
Read on, and see some pictures and video,
to learn about taking an instructional sailing vacation in an exotic setting!
The British Virgin Islands
are one of the best places to get started,
and it's hard to outgrow them: many serious bluewater cruisers make ocean
passages to return year after year. A large percentage of students
taking Bareboat Charter courses, such as our Start
Bareboatingsm course, seek to cruise
in the Virgin Islands. This is a great way to get started.
We offer special trips where you can not
only get training while you sail and handle the vessel in all aspects,
but also enjoy a proper vacation at the same time. There's plenty
to do besides sail. Food and drink are excellent ashore, and preparing
meals on board is surprisingly easy and satisfying. Watersports abound
down here: you can try board sailing ('Windsurfing'), snorkeling (equipment
provided), beachcombing, hiking & exploring, zipping around in the
yacht's dinghy tender, bird watching, even fishing. There are some
very interesting spots scattered around for nightlife, too, such as the
Bomba Shack on Tortola, Foxies and Sydney's Peace & Love on Jost Van
Dyke, and others.
For relaxation time on board, the vessels
are all spacious and well appointed. We use yachts ranging from 34
to over 50 feet, depending on group size. We never overcrowd a boat
beyond its realistic capacity to accommodate everyone. Each vessel
has hot and cold running water & shower in the heads (marine bathrooms
with toilet), refrigeration, proper electronics and instruments, electric
anchor windlass, bimini shade for cockpit, rigid bottom inflatable (RIB)
dinghy with outboard engine, etc, etc...
When you're done, you'll probably wind
up with Basic Cruising or Bareboat Charter certification, depending on
your prior experience and how much you pursue it on the trip.
NEXT
TRIP: BVI, April
19-26. Only 1 spot left.
Contact
us now if you're interested.
Read on
for general info, trip logs, pictures and video of prior trips.
|

JANUARY '07 BVI TRIP
This was from the 20th to the 27th, with
some people arriving early and/or staying later. Wonderful trip;
moderate winds, comfortably warm to hot daytime temperatures, almost no
rain (and brief when we had it). There were four participants plus
the Dockmaster. Here's where we went and what we did there!
(All photos by Steve Card unless otherwise
noted.)
Friday, 19th. Early arrivals,
Hodges Creek Marina, Tortola. Dockmaster arrives early, and enjoys
the following scenery.
 |
| One big behemoth of a stratocruiser approaches
another on a T-bone course. The Dockmaster was eating lunch on the
balcony of Calamaya, the restaurant at the base. It has surprisingly
good food, especially considering that it really has a captive patronage.
These guys got the cat turned around and eventually backed it in, parallel
parking fashion, to the wharf, end to end with the one whose stern we see
to the bottom right.
Want to drive one of these bad boys?
Our own Peter Schorr has added Cruising Multihull to his list of ASA instructor
certifications! |
|
 |
| Just enough moist clouds for a mid-afternoon
rainbow.
Rain is not uncommon at this time of the
year, but is mostly a nighttime phenomenon. Sometimes we get
a bit in the mid to late afternoon. Either way, it's always brief
showers, not a steady downpour. And it can be quite refreshing in
the tropics!
(It wasn't this dark in real life; contrast
boosted to bring out the rainbow.) |
|
Lunch and a sideshow. These
two guys showed up right at the base.
The waitress, Nikki, pointed them out,
and the Dockmaster took off, promising to come back to finish his
coffee and pay the tab.
These shots were all taken from Sunsail
boats at the end of the "A" (departure) dock.
The smaller one kept playing with a stick,
and the other just hung around (probably an older sibling or parent).
The coffee got cold, but Nikki was kind
enough to give him a fresh cup
for the price of a glimpse of the pictures.
Saturday, 20th. Arrive at Sunsail's
base, Hodges Creek Marina, Tortola. Some of got in a night or
more before, and stayed at the hotel of the same name or on St. Thomas.
Dockmaster fished that afternoon while the others did provisioning. (They'd
all done it before, more than once, including Greece for John and Lydia,
so don't guilt him for squeezing in some fishing.) Dockmaster landed
his first bonefish without a guide. That was pretty special.
This was our home for the week - welcome
aboard!
She's a Beneteau Oceanis 423, with three
cabins and three heads, and can accommodate six or seven people nicely.
More than that is pushing it, but can be done. We don't do.
That's a large swim platform at the transom,
with a convertible walk-through seat. The locker on the bottom left
is ideal for snorkelling gear, or as a fish box if we're lucky while trolling.
(Mixed luck this time around.) To the right is a fold away swim ladder
with teak steps. The cleats to either side are very handy for using
the dinghy; nice touch compared to other vessels we've used.
The steering wheel is not broken: it actually
revolves 90 degress out of the way, allowing easier access through the
cockpit. The instrument pod houses a combo GPS chartplotter and sounder,
with a daylight viewable color screen.
Let's go below:
| View from the companionway stairs of the
saloon. (Salon? Thought they used to call this a salon back in the
day, but now everyone calls it a saloon.)
Left to right:
-
refrigerator with fridge/freezer sections
-
oven and two burner range (propane fueled)
-
double sink, with cutting boards fitted over
-
partial view of luxurious forward suite (cabin)
-
dinette, which converts to a double berth
if needed.
The Dockmaster slept on the dinette, and after
the first night, didn't even bother converting it. It's more comfortable
and roomy than this picture shows. |
|
| STARBOARD: Here's a cockeyed
view of the forward suite. Both sides have step-up platforms for
the large double berth (bed), which is larger than the wide-angle picture
suggests. Around the corner to the right is a large head area with
separate shower stall. For a boat of this size, it's a luxury.
You have to sign up earlyh to get these digs!
BELOW: one of two identical aft
cabins, roomy for this size vessel. The berths wrap around
toward the centerline, giving a little more room. This is the starboard
cabin, which has its own private (en suite) head. The port side cabin's
head is also accessible from the saloon. Occupant can lock both doors.
|
 |
|
|
This concludes our tour.
We loaded up the boat, had drinks, then
dinner at Fat Hog Bob's. This is a misnomer as it's located in Hodges
Creek, and Fat Hogs Bay is one over to the east. Still, it's a great
handle for a steak and rib joint, and they have lighter fare too.
(Meat dishes are side-dished with a nice assortment of fresh vegetables.)
Moon, masts and Venus (barely visible below
moon). View is along the Sunsail wharf. Goodnight!

| Sunday: depart for Virgin Gorda.
This is usually an upwind sail, so we get our tacking practice out of the
way. The prevailing winds are east, with northeast and southeast
fairly common too. Here's John and Lydia enjoying the ride.
They've been on a BVI trip and also to Greece with us, so they're not virgin
to the Virgin Islands.
Tortola to Virgin Gorda can take as little
as three hours or over five. It depends on the wind, the boat, how
carefully the boat is steered upwind, and whether we take any scenic detours
from the shortest possible route.
Virgin Gorda is a tall, mountainous island
with Gorda Sound to the northeast. We often spend two nights here
to do everything, inlcuding a day-trip to the famous Baths at the south
end of the island via taxi-tour over the mountains with breathtaking views
over Gorda Sound and various other parts of the island. There's great
snorkeling off small adjacent islands, fishing, and the world famous Bitter
End Yacht Club where you can rent all kinds of sailing dinghies, catamarans,
sailboards, and small Boston Whalers if you want to explore on your own. |
 |
| Looking for submarines. View from
the port topside ports (hull windows) looking down while heeled over on
starboard tack. The Dockmaster was probably making some sandwhiches
at the time, but there's always time to grab the camera. |
 |
| Starboard:: Approaching Biras Hill
and the Bitter end. Karin and John are on the foredeck. Bitter
End offers moorings, fuel & water, limited provisions, and shoreside
accommodations in addition to the rental/charter fleet. There's a
restaurant and bar, an "English" pub, gift shop, etc. Guests at the
hotel can enjoy daily racing activities. (The Dockmaster is a former
daily Laser champion, which means nothing more than the fact that someone
had to win the hand-made model Laser fashioned from parts of a palm tree
and coconut.)
A small wire-mesh enclosure at the dinghy
dock used to house small sharks but might not any longer - a quick glance
revealed nothing this time.
Below: Prickly Pear Island, en route
to a mooring at Saba Rock, which is just out of our view to port in the
picture to the right (and 90 degrees relative from our view below).
|
 |
|
Prickly pear has small but very nice beaches.
Anchoring along Prickly Pear is relatively easy and a no-brainer in calm
weather. In a blow, a mooring makes sleeping at night much easier! |
| This time, as most of us had been to the
Baths at least once, we decided to stay only one night in Gorda Sound,
and opted for a mooring at Saba Rock.
Saba is a tiny island which now houses
a restaurant/bar and some hotel rooms. it also has docks and is convenient
for taking on water and ice (included in the mooring fee).
We went snorkeling off Eustatia Island,
where there are two reefs you can anchor the dinghy in between and snorkel
back and forth.
Some of us had Sunset drinks at Saba Rock's
upstairs gazebo, affording gorgeous shaded views of much of the Sound.
and a view east over Eustatia reef into the open Caribbean sea (the view
seen here). Then, an excellent dinner back at Saba, and a dinghy
excursion for some later to socialize at the Bitter End and back at Saba. |
 |

Monday: Marina Cay. We postponed
our original intention, Anegada, indefinitely due to uncertainty over the
weather. It's nice to have clear or partially clear skies approaching
Anegada due to the reefs, but it's not absolutely necessary. No matter,
we could go later in the trip. So, we docked up for ice and water
and then headed off to Marina Cay.
| Sailing "wing & wing" en route from
Gorda Sound to Marina Cay (heading is roughly west here). Lydia and
Karin are not merely eye candy here - they did their fair share of steering
wing and wing, too. They are, however, more photogenic than John,
Dave and the Dockmaster...:-)
For you beginners out there, "wing &
wing" means sailing directly away from the wind. To get the front
sail to fill, it has to be brought out from behind the rear sail so wind
reaches it. So, we flop it over, and call it wing & wing (or
wing on wing).
Pringles are in evidence here. They're
almost a shadow currency, more availalabe in more places in the BVI than
almost anything else you care to imagine. (Haven't decided if that's
scary, or a relief.) |
 |
 |
| Marina Cay is a small island with a very
nice restaurant/bar. It has great snorkeling a short dinghy ride
away at the Coral Gardens, and sometimes right off the beach, as there's
a large fringing reef surrounding much of the island. Great views
from the restaurant and up the foot paths, especially at the top of the
island which is one big landscaped hill essentially. There's a very
loud happy hour on top of the hill where a one-man accordian/vocal/drum
band performs and everyone really gets into it. Marina Cay also has
a fuel dock with water, and a store for provisions, clothing, and gifts. |
|
VIDEO
The pictue to starboard is a link to a video taken last year at Marina
Cay, giving a great idea of the scenery here.
More scenic pictures from this trip to come, when they're snagged from
other people's cameras... |
 |
|
|
Our dink in tow, Virgin Gorda in the background.
- Dave and John watering our Oceanis 423 at Marina Cay. That's
an English style phone booth right on the dock!
Lydia Furuta, photo.
We did the Coral Gardens, had drinks ashore,
and ate on board via the barbecue kettle. Three grown men scratching
our heads and thumping our chests barely got the damn thing to stay lit,
but we improved each time we used it subsequently. (It's not as easy
on a boat.) Dave and John took the dinghy over to Trellis Bay, at
Beef Island, for an excursion and also to re-fill the coffers (ATM) before
dinner.
-happy camper at Marina Cay. John Gugliotta, photo
- convenient swim steps from the beach at Marina Cay. Lydia Furuta,
photo.
The Dockmaster had the best snorkeling
experience of his life, and he's had many. After a typical grid-pattern
tour of the area, he settled into a brisk-paced crawl for some exercise
and to warm up a bit. Immediately, a school of foot-long yellowtails
joined in, surrounding him below and to the sides. They seemed to
keep looking at him. More kept joining from the side: he could see
them approach at 90 degrees, turn and fall in line. It was as if
they sensed he was a predator getting ready to make a kill and they were
anticipating some scraps. After awhile, he made a U-turn to see if
they stayed with him. As soon as he finished turning and resumed
his crawl, they were back. The school had to be around 30 fish at
that point. And after one more U-turn, they were still there!
They followed him to the dinghy and it was over.
Lydia shot this one, and titled it: "One Too Many Painkillers."
My rebuttal: I had one, and as you can see, it ain't finished...
Tuesday: head out to Anegada, the
'Sunken Island.' Trolled up a large Kingfish (mackerel) soon after
leaving the main island chain. It was huge, and kept jumping,
long enough for everyone to see it. Then, it shook the hook and was
free. Dockmaster was almost glad, as it would have been a little
large to handle off the transom, and they have sharp teeth.
Lying north of the main chain and mostly
surrounded by large coral reefs, Anegada has its own atmosphere and magic,
with spectacular swimming, snorkeling and diving on the north side of the
island. It's somewhat weather dependant, and It requires careful
navigation to get to a safe staging area to make the final approach through
the reefs - cool! It's flat as a pancake except for trees, and with
a maximum elevation only 28 feet, it can't be seen when at sea level in
the rest of the Virgin Islands. Large population of pink flamingos,
too - around 200. Good bonefishing, as well as reef fishing for a
variety of species.
We took the shuttle bus to Loblolly Bay
on the north side to take advantage of the snorkeling. Not very good
this
time around: there was a fair heave on from the north, and due to the wave
action on the barrier reef, the inner reefs had poor visibility and a bit
of an undertow. We cut that short and had drinks - very good ones
- at the Big Bamboo, one of the oldest restaurant/bars on the Island.
Their frozen Pina Colada is spectacular, and their Painkillers don't suck.
(The Painkiller is the unofficial "official" drink of he BVI, invented
at Jost Van Dyke. Pussers International, which operates Marina Cay,
likes to suggest that it's their drink, especially if it's made with Pussers
Rum. Nah.)
Rode back, cleaned up, and had dinner at
the Anegada Reef Hotel, which organizes the shuttle buses and can also
arrange for private taxis. Slightly pricey lobster, fresh and properly
(not overly) cooked yet unspectacular, but excellent barbecued lamb chops.
The side dishes of rice and pidgeon peas, and sauteed lima beans, were
so good we all had seconds. Who eats lima beans? Please!
But they were that good.
On Anegada, all restaurants require not
just reservations for dinner, but your specific order. They require
this by 3 or 4 pm! You stop by, or radio in your order.
Anegada, the 'Drowned Island.'
No, that wasn't an error. We spent two nights there! And, it
has two nicknames. According to one cruising guide, Anegada means
drowned or inundated. We all go off on our own. Dave and the
Dockmaster kicked off the lazy day by shooting pool on the crappiest coin-operated
table you ever saw, but it was so uniformly ****ed up that it evened out.
Then, Dave fished along the shore and from the dinghy, and Dockmaster booked
one of the bonefish guides. He wound up with three and saw many more,
as well as catching a few jacks and barracuda. The others went to
Cow Neck beach, and reported it to be at least as nice as Loblolly, which
is spectacular even when it's hard to swim and snorkel. (When it's
rough, you can still do this close to the beach, and shelling improves
due to the extra water motion. Dockmaster found a perfect sand-dollar
shell, intact, and was able to get it home in one piece.)
Dinner aboard via the barebecue.
Long moonlit walk on Anegada's fine sand beach for the Dockmaster; all
else stayed aboard.
- The Dockmaster, apparently stupified by the glorious sunset at Anegada.
John Gugliotta, photo.
(more pictures of January '07 will be added shortly)
Thursday: Cooper Island. First,
we stopped back at Marina Cay to top off our water tanks, pick up some
staples, etc. Got to Manchioneel Bay at Cooper early enough to have
our pick of moorings, close to our favorite snorkeling spot.
Hint: it's not the main spot, and it's priviledged info so you have to
come along to experience it. The main spot is excellent, too.
We snorkelled, fished, spent some time ashore in the shade, and then relaxed
on the boat before dinner aboard.
A digression is in order here to thank
Karin for her outstanding help in meal planning, provisioning, and marinating.
She even pre-packaged several amazing spice combinations to use for the
meals, where the Dockmaster merely brought sea-salt, black pepper and Heat
Wave (multi-spice) grinders. A self-described "foodie," Karin took
our on-boad dinners from passable boat food to restaurant quality fare.
All we grunts had to do was not ruin it on the barbecue grill.
Thanks, K!
Friday: Norman Island. Home
of the famous Caves, and the Willie T, Norman Island has a large, protected
anchorage called The Bight, or Pirates Bight. It boasts exceptionally
clear waters and consequently very good snorkeling. The caves, just
around the south headland, are fun to explore and are prefaced with deep
vertical walls. If you slow down and get close, you get an amazing
display of small fish, creatures and coral along the wall. Dockmaster
saw a small moray eel, which came out, swam in the open briefly, and disappeared
into a new crevice. It's very rare to see them in their entirety.
(Dockmaster and Karin also saw small ones at Cooper on separate outings.
Not the same one, as we hit them at different spots.) While Norman
Island is famous for sea turtles, we saw none this time. (Lydia saw
one at the Coral Gardens, however.)
Lunch ashore. Excellent. There's
one beach restaurant/bar, so it's hard to miss. Roti, conch fritters
with a proper little salad bed, etc. Can't remember if we lunched
or snorkeled first - no matter.
The Willie T was a bit more subdued than
usual. It's a restaurant and bar on an old sailing vessel that is
semi-permanently moored in The Bight. Its claim to fame?
Women who jump off the top naked get a free T-shirt to commemorate the
event. Men? Bupkus. No sightings on this trip, and the overall
noise level was mid-range. (We moor or anchor on the far side of
The Bight so that it's background noise and not in our faces.) Another
fine meal on board, and I helped! This time, it was a stew of rice,
veggies, and marinated chicken.
Home. Returned to base at
10am, off boat at 11. John, Lydia and Karin ferry over to Marina
Cay for the Day, then back for one more night at the Hodges Creek Hotel,
before taking the ferry to St. Thomas and their flights to the Metro NY
area.
Dave and the Dockmaster were booked on
the same American flight in the evening, so we had time for some bonefishing.
We spooked lots of fish that we couldn't see until they took off, and flubbed
some casts at tailing fish. This was Dave's first experience sight
fishing on a flat, and he had a good eye for it. Eventually, while
untangling a bird's nest (kinked and coiled line), a fish took off with
his bucktail jib the second he started pulling it back in. Dockmaster
heard the line sizzling off and saw the fish streak across the flat.
However, the jig was up - literally - when the line parted from some prior
coral abrasion.
Thus concludes the January 07 trip log,
but pictures will be added as soon as possible!
NEXT TRIP:
British
Virgin Islands, April 19-26.
only two
spots left:
click
here for details, or contact us!
FAQ's about our BVI trips...
What's included?
Everything except your airfare, any meals
snacks or drinks ashore, alcohol, and any windsurfing/diving equipment
you might wish to partake of. We will probably have at least one
sailboard ('windsurfer') along for the ride, with the cost split amongst
participants expressing an interest in using it - probably $50 to $75 per
person for the week. (yes, the whole week - that's pretty good!).
And, instruction from The Dockmaster is free!
Snorkeling gear is provided, although
I strongly recommend bringing your own mask and snorkel, and if you have
room in your luggage, fins. Again, we can teach you how and guide
you around.
Transfers to/from airport are usually
not included; depends on local logistics. We'll let you know in advance.
(Don't worry, it's cheap.)
Also: one level of ASA certification,
if
relevant and if earned during the course of the trip. If you have
Basic Keelboat, you'll be pursuing Basic Coastal Cruising. If you
have BCC, you'll be pursuing Bareboat Charter. If you have Bareboat,
you can earn Coastal Navigation. If you don't already have Basic
Keelboat or comparable experience, you can't earn certification on this
trip, although you can participate fully with the others and still learn
plenty. Unlike too many schools these days, we won't sell you an
unrealistic or impossible goal: learning to sail in a week on a large cruising
boat.
Provisioning of the boat is included:
breakfast, lunch, a few dinners, water, juice, soft drinks, snacks.
We accommodate special requests and diets within reason and availability
(the latter of which is pretty good). We're not cheap - expect extra
virgin olive oil, spring water, leaf lettuce, real salt/pepper grinders
- the good stuff. No caviar, but no Chef Boyardee. No Pellegrino,
but no Acme Cola. You can buy whatever you want to supplement provisions.
We don't supply alcohol, although participants can buy and consume in reasonable
quantities at the discretion of the Captain/Instructor. In other
words, enjoy responsibly.
What do flights
cost?
Expect to pay around $400 to $450 if booking
reasonably early and flying to San Juan, transferring to the Beef
Island airport in Tortola (price includes connecting flight).
Tortola is one of the largest of the British Virgin Islands, and Beef Island
is adjacent over a short bridge. Another way to fly is to go straight
to St. Thomas in the US Virgin Islands and take a ferry over
to Tortola, clearing customs there. The flight is cheaper - $300
or less - and after adding in the ferry and taxi tansfers ($75), still
costs a lot less than flying to San Juan. However, the whole thing
takes longer. Airport codes: for Beef Island: EIS. For St.
Thomas: STB or STT - double check with your carrier.
What if I'm coming
alone?
We'll help you pair up with someone else
to share a cabin. Some people like to sleep outside in the cockpit,
although there's no guarantee that strong gusts and occasional light showers
won't interrupt your sleep. The bimini cover takes care of light
rain if there's little or no wind. If we have an odd number of people,
you might get lucky and get a private cabin at the double-occupancy rate
- no promises. For smaller groups, we use smaller boats and you might
not need to share.
What if I'm alone
and want a private cabin?
Depends on the particulars of a given
trip. Sometimes it's a given, sometimes you pay a premium, and sometimes
it's not possible. You'll know before you book.
Feel free to call Steve with any questions
at 718 885 0335, or just write back.
Where
else do you go besides BVI?
From time to time we schedule trips in
other locations for variety. Here are some places we're considering
for future trips to supplement our BVI jaunts:
-
Australia: Whitsunday Islands
-
Mediterranean: Greek Isles (just did two
boats in September), Turkey or Croatia
-
South Pacific: Polynesia (Tahiti, Bora
Bora, etc)
-
Caribbean: Belize
Greece
trip was FULL, September
16-23.
Two Jeanneau Sun Odyssey
49's. We sailed from Athens and did a combination of the Saronic
and Argolic Gulf islands, the Peloponnisos, and the Cyclades.
Trip log with photos and
video will be posted shortly.
Let us know if you're interested in one
of these locations, or some other idyllic setting. We can make it
happen.
In addition to photos, we have several video clips below
from our January '06 trip, with more to follow. (To see videos from a previous
trip, visit our
video page here, and look through
our British Virgin Island series.)
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