We give you MORE of what you go to sailing school for!sm
British Virgin Islands,
GREECE, and other exotic destinations
(718) 885-0335  /  140 City Island Avenue, City Island, NY 10464


 
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LAST BVI TRIP: April '08.
NEXT BVI TRIP: TBA.

NEXT GREECE TRIP: Mid-September '08 (tentative)
Contact Us to discuss future trips, or
read on for more info, trip logs, pictures and video!
 

...NEVER MIND THE TRIP LOG, SHOW ME THE VIDEO
 
 

Right: most of the crew from our April '08 BVI trip at Marina Cay.  We did some docking practice, filled the water tank, and departed for Anegada.


 
 
 
Here's the whole gang from our January '08 trip. Captain Steve Card, the school's Director, is third from left and shot this in bad light with the self-timer.  This is at Foxy's in Jost Van Dyke, a lively and legendary night spot with great table fare.  Below: a representative sample of wildlife.
 

ray, Norman Island, right off the dock (you can snorkel with these guys!)

pelican, Marina Cay.


Typical scene at Loblolly Bay, Anegada - one of the finest beaches you'll find anywhere with great swimming, snorkeling, food and drink.


It's all about the sailing, after all!  En route to Virgin Gorda on our first sail of the trip.  Julia has the helm.

More pictures, some video, and a trip log from the January '08 trip will follow shortly.

SHOW ME THE VIDEO

Hi from the BVI! 

 One of our new friends waves hello to your left from our  January '07 BVI trip.  See below or Click Here for more details on this adventure.

"This was the best trip I've taken in a very long time!"

-Dave Turchi, New York, NY.
(who's repeating on the Jan. '08 trip)









Steve Card, photo


 
Dining al fresco in the cockpit of our Beneteau 43, April 2007, BVI.  It doesn't get better than this!

Fabi and Julio, to the left, joined us from Minnesota.  Eric, Monika and Brittany are local (NY, not BVI...).  Eric took our Start Sailing course, and Monika is now enrolled as well.

Bryn Will, photo. 


 
Fall '06: GREECE -
Athens, Peloponnisos &
Cyclades, September

A little taste is seen to your left.  We were approaching Epidavros, a small port along the Peloponnisos, not far from Athens.

Our new GREECE PAGE is now up!
Click Here to visit.

Read the article on this trip in the American Sailing Association's (ASA) summer newsletter magazine!

Steve Card, photo

 
.
.
"Thanks for the best vacation we've ever had.
The trip left us feeling enriched, productive, and most important, relaxed.  Sounds like an impossible combination.
You've expanded our lives. Hope to join you again,"
Dale & Shobha, New York, NY (Jan '06 trip)

Sunrise at Brandywine Bay, Tortola, BVI.  January '06.  (Steve Card, photo)

"This was probably the best vacation I've ever taken."
- John Gugliotta, New York, NY.  March '06 trip.
 

"I had some of the best moments of my life on our sailing vessel "Near Enough" - from the best night's sleep (I slept through a squall), to sitting on the bow of the boat in contemplation, while gazing at the stunning horizon lines and the distant islands. While snorkeling, I experienced amazing underwater biodiversity,  renewing my appreciation and respect for nature. I enjoyed the trip immensely as well as the company of my shipmates who really added to the pleasure of the whole trip. I can't wait to visit this area again next year and hopefully take more trips with Captain Steve to other parts of the world."
- Lydia Furuta, New York, NY.  March '06 BVI trip.

SHOW ME THE VIDEO

Read on, and see some pictures and video, to learn about taking an instructional sailing vacation in an exotic setting!  The British Virgin Islands are one of the best places to get started, and it's hard to outgrow them: many serious bluewater cruisers make ocean passages to return year after year.  A large percentage of students taking Bareboat Charter courses, such as our Start Bareboatingsm course, seek to cruise in the Virgin Islands.  This is a great way to get started.

We offer special trips where you can not only get training while you sail and handle the vessel in all aspects, but also enjoy a proper vacation at the same time.  There's plenty to do besides sail.  Food and drink are excellent ashore, and preparing meals on board is surprisingly easy and satisfying.  Watersports abound down here: you can try board sailing ('Windsurfing'), snorkeling (equipment provided), beachcombing, hiking & exploring, zipping around in the yacht's dinghy tender, bird watching, even fishing.  There are some very interesting spots scattered around for nightlife, too, such as the Bomba Shack on Tortola, Foxies and Sydney's Peace & Love on Jost Van Dyke, and others.

For relaxation time on board, the vessels are all spacious and well appointed.  We use yachts ranging from 34 to over 50 feet, depending on group size.  We never overcrowd a boat beyond its realistic capacity to accommodate everyone.  Each vessel has hot and cold running water & shower in the heads (marine bathrooms with toilet), refrigeration, proper electronics and instruments, electric anchor windlass, bimini shade for cockpit, rigid bottom inflatable (RIB) dinghy with outboard engine, etc, etc...

When you're done, you'll probably wind up with Basic Cruising or Bareboat Charter certification, depending on your prior experience and how much you pursue it on the trip.

NEXT TRIP:  BVI, April 19-26. Only 1 spot left.
Contact us now if you're interested.

Read on for general info, trip logs, pictures and video of prior trips.

JANUARY '07 BVI TRIP

This was from the 20th to the 27th, with some people arriving early and/or staying later.  Wonderful trip; moderate winds, comfortably warm to hot daytime temperatures, almost no rain (and brief when we had it).  There were four participants plus the Dockmaster.  Here's where we went and what we did there!

(All photos by Steve Card unless otherwise noted.)

Friday, 19th.  Early arrivals, Hodges Creek Marina, Tortola.  Dockmaster arrives early, and enjoys the following scenery.
 
One big behemoth of a stratocruiser approaches another on a T-bone course.  The Dockmaster was eating lunch on the balcony of Calamaya, the restaurant at the base.  It has surprisingly good food, especially considering that it really has a captive patronage.  These guys got the cat turned around and eventually backed it in, parallel parking fashion, to the wharf, end to end with the one whose stern we see to the bottom right.

Want to drive one of these bad boys?  Our own Peter Schorr has added Cruising Multihull to his list of ASA instructor certifications!

Just enough moist clouds for a mid-afternoon rainbow.

Rain is not uncommon at this time of the year, but is mostly a nighttime phenomenon.   Sometimes we get a bit in the mid to late afternoon.  Either way, it's always brief showers, not a steady downpour.  And it can be quite refreshing in the tropics!

(It wasn't this dark in real life; contrast boosted to bring out the rainbow.)

 

Lunch and a sideshow.  These two guys showed up right at the base.
The waitress, Nikki, pointed them out, and the Dockmaster took off,  promising to come back to finish his coffee and pay the tab.
 

These shots were all taken from Sunsail boats at the end of the "A" (departure) dock.
The smaller one kept playing with a stick, and the other just hung around (probably an older sibling or parent).

The coffee got cold, but Nikki was kind enough to give him a fresh cup
for the price of a glimpse of the pictures.

Saturday, 20th.  Arrive at Sunsail's base, Hodges Creek Marina, Tortola.  Some of got in a night or more before, and stayed at the hotel of the same name or on St. Thomas.  Dockmaster fished that afternoon while the others did provisioning. (They'd all done it before, more than once, including Greece for John and Lydia, so don't guilt him for squeezing in some fishing.)  Dockmaster landed his first bonefish without a guide.  That was pretty special.

This was our home for the week - welcome aboard!

She's a Beneteau Oceanis 423, with three cabins and three heads, and can accommodate six or seven people nicely.  More than that is pushing it, but can be done.  We don't do.

That's a large swim platform at the transom, with a convertible walk-through seat.  The locker on the bottom left is ideal for snorkelling gear, or as a fish box if we're lucky while trolling.  (Mixed luck this time around.)  To the right is a fold away swim ladder with teak steps.  The cleats to either side are very handy for using the dinghy; nice touch compared to other vessels we've used.

The steering wheel is not broken: it actually revolves 90 degress out of the way, allowing easier access through the cockpit.  The instrument pod houses a combo GPS chartplotter and sounder, with a daylight viewable color screen.

Let's go below:


View from the companionway stairs of the saloon. (Salon?  Thought they used to call this a salon back in the day, but now everyone calls it a saloon.)

Left to right:

  • refrigerator with fridge/freezer sections
  • oven and two burner range (propane fueled)
  • double sink, with cutting boards fitted over
  • partial view of luxurious forward suite (cabin)
  • dinette, which converts to a double berth if needed.
The Dockmaster slept on the dinette, and after the first night, didn't even bother converting it.  It's more comfortable and roomy than this picture shows.

 
STARBOARD:  Here's a cockeyed view of the forward suite.  Both sides have step-up platforms for the large double berth (bed), which is larger than the wide-angle picture suggests.  Around the corner to the right is a large head area with separate shower stall.  For a boat of this size, it's a luxury.  You have to sign up earlyh to get these digs!

BELOW: one of two identical aft cabins, roomy for this size vessel.   The berths wrap around toward the centerline, giving a little more room.  This is the starboard cabin, which has its own private (en suite) head.  The port side cabin's head is also accessible from the saloon.  Occupant can lock both doors. 

 

This concludes our tour.

We loaded up the boat, had drinks, then dinner at Fat Hog Bob's.  This is a misnomer as it's located in Hodges Creek, and Fat Hogs Bay is one over to the east.  Still, it's a great handle for a steak and rib joint, and they have lighter fare too.  (Meat dishes are side-dished with a nice assortment of fresh vegetables.)

Moon, masts and Venus (barely visible below moon).  View is along the Sunsail wharf.  Goodnight!
 



 
 
 
 
 
Sunday: depart for Virgin Gorda.  This is usually an upwind sail, so we get our tacking practice out of the way.  The prevailing winds are east, with northeast and southeast fairly common too.  Here's John and Lydia enjoying the ride.  They've been on a BVI trip and also to Greece with us, so they're not virgin to the Virgin Islands.

Tortola to Virgin Gorda can take as little as three hours or over five.  It depends on the wind, the boat, how carefully the boat is steered upwind, and whether we take any scenic detours from the shortest possible route.

Virgin Gorda is a tall, mountainous island with Gorda Sound to the northeast.  We often spend two nights here to do everything, inlcuding a day-trip to the famous Baths at the south end of the island via taxi-tour over the mountains with breathtaking views over Gorda Sound and various other parts of the island.  There's great snorkeling off small adjacent islands, fishing, and the world famous Bitter End Yacht Club where you can rent all kinds of sailing dinghies, catamarans, sailboards, and small Boston Whalers if you want to explore on your own.


 
Looking for submarines.  View from the port topside ports (hull windows) looking down while heeled over on starboard tack.  The Dockmaster was probably making some sandwhiches at the time, but there's always time to grab the camera.

 
Starboard:: Approaching Biras Hill and the Bitter end.  Karin and John are on the foredeck.  Bitter End offers moorings, fuel & water, limited provisions, and shoreside accommodations in addition to the rental/charter fleet.  There's a restaurant and bar, an "English" pub, gift shop, etc.  Guests at the hotel can enjoy daily racing activities.  (The Dockmaster is a former daily Laser champion, which means nothing more than the fact that someone had to win the hand-made model Laser fashioned from parts of a palm tree and coconut.)

A small wire-mesh enclosure at the dinghy dock used to house small sharks but might not any longer - a quick glance revealed nothing this time.

Below: Prickly Pear Island, en route to a mooring at Saba Rock, which is just out of our view to port in the picture to the right (and 90 degrees relative from our view below).
 

Prickly pear has small but very nice beaches.   Anchoring along Prickly Pear is relatively easy and a no-brainer in calm weather.  In a blow, a mooring makes sleeping at night much easier!


 
This time, as most of us had been to the Baths at least once, we decided to stay only one night in Gorda Sound, and opted for a mooring at Saba Rock. 

Saba is a tiny island which now houses a restaurant/bar and some hotel rooms.  it also has docks and is convenient for taking on water and ice (included in the mooring fee). 

We went snorkeling off Eustatia Island, where there are two reefs you can anchor the dinghy in between and snorkel back and forth.

Some of us had Sunset drinks at Saba Rock's upstairs gazebo, affording gorgeous shaded views of much of the Sound. and a view east over Eustatia reef into the open Caribbean sea (the view seen here).  Then, an excellent dinner back at Saba, and a dinghy excursion for some later to socialize at the Bitter End and back at Saba.


 

Monday: Marina Cay.  We postponed our original intention, Anegada, indefinitely due to uncertainty over the weather.  It's nice to have clear or partially clear skies approaching Anegada due to the reefs, but it's not absolutely necessary.  No matter, we could go later in the trip.  So, we docked up for ice and water and then headed off to Marina Cay.
 
 
 
Sailing "wing & wing" en route from Gorda Sound to Marina Cay (heading is roughly west here).  Lydia and Karin are not merely eye candy here - they did their fair share of steering wing and wing, too.  They are, however, more photogenic than John, Dave and the Dockmaster...:-)

For you beginners out there, "wing & wing" means sailing directly away from the wind.  To get the front sail to fill, it has to be brought out from behind the rear sail so wind reaches it.  So, we flop it over, and call it wing & wing (or wing on wing).

Pringles are in evidence here.  They're almost a shadow currency, more availalabe in more places in the BVI than almost anything else you care to imagine.  (Haven't decided if that's scary, or a relief.)


 
 
Marina Cay is a small island with a very nice restaurant/bar.  It has great snorkeling a short dinghy ride away at the Coral Gardens, and sometimes right off the beach, as there's a large fringing reef surrounding much of the island.  Great views from the restaurant and up the foot paths, especially at the top of the island which is one big landscaped hill essentially.  There's a very loud happy hour on top of the hill where a one-man accordian/vocal/drum band performs and everyone really gets into it.  Marina Cay also has a fuel dock with water, and a store for provisions, clothing, and gifts.
VIDEO

The pictue to starboard is a link to a video taken last year at Marina Cay, giving a great idea of the scenery here.

More scenic pictures from this trip to come, when they're snagged from other people's cameras...

Our dink in tow, Virgin Gorda in the background.


- Dave and John watering our Oceanis 423 at Marina Cay.  That's an English style phone booth right on the dock!
Lydia Furuta, photo.

We did the Coral Gardens, had drinks ashore, and ate on board via the barbecue kettle.  Three grown men scratching our heads and thumping our chests barely got the damn thing to stay lit, but we improved each time we used it subsequently.  (It's not as easy on a boat.)  Dave and John took the dinghy over to Trellis Bay, at Beef Island, for an excursion and also to re-fill the coffers (ATM) before dinner.


-happy camper at Marina Cay.  John Gugliotta, photo


- convenient swim steps from the beach at Marina Cay.  Lydia Furuta, photo.

The Dockmaster had the best snorkeling experience of his life, and he's had many.  After a typical grid-pattern tour of the area, he settled into a brisk-paced crawl for some exercise and to warm up a bit.  Immediately, a school of foot-long yellowtails joined in, surrounding him below and to the sides.  They seemed to keep looking at him.  More kept joining from the side: he could see them approach at 90 degrees, turn and fall in line.  It was as if they sensed he was a predator getting ready to make a kill and they were anticipating some scraps.  After awhile, he made a U-turn to see if they stayed with him.  As soon as he finished turning and resumed his crawl, they were back.  The school had to be around 30 fish at that point.  And after one more U-turn, they were still there!  They followed him to the dinghy and it was over.


Lydia shot this one, and titled it: "One Too Many Painkillers."  My rebuttal: I had one, and as you can see, it ain't finished...
 

Tuesday: head out to Anegada, the 'Sunken Island.'  Trolled up a large Kingfish (mackerel) soon after leaving the main island chain.  It was huge, and kept jumping,  long enough for everyone to see it.  Then, it shook the hook and was free.  Dockmaster was almost glad, as it would have been a little large to handle off the transom, and they have sharp teeth.

Lying north of the main chain and mostly surrounded by large coral reefs, Anegada has its own atmosphere and magic, with spectacular swimming, snorkeling and diving on the north side of the island.  It's somewhat weather dependant, and It requires careful navigation to get to a safe staging area to make the final approach through the reefs - cool!  It's flat as a pancake except for trees, and with a maximum elevation only 28 feet, it can't be seen when at sea level in the rest of the Virgin Islands.  Large population of pink flamingos, too - around 200.  Good bonefishing, as well as reef fishing for a variety of species.

We took the shuttle bus to Loblolly Bay on the north side to take advantage of the snorkeling.  Not very good this time around: there was a fair heave on from the north, and due to the wave action on the barrier reef, the inner reefs had poor visibility and a bit of an undertow.  We cut that short and had drinks - very good ones - at the Big Bamboo, one of the oldest restaurant/bars on the Island.  Their frozen Pina Colada is spectacular, and their Painkillers don't suck.  (The Painkiller is the unofficial "official" drink of he BVI, invented at Jost Van Dyke.  Pussers International, which operates Marina Cay, likes to suggest that it's their drink, especially if it's made with Pussers Rum.  Nah.)

Rode back, cleaned up, and had dinner at the Anegada Reef Hotel, which organizes the shuttle buses and can also arrange for private taxis.  Slightly pricey lobster, fresh and properly (not overly) cooked yet unspectacular, but excellent barbecued lamb chops.  The side dishes of rice and pidgeon peas, and sauteed lima beans, were so good we all had seconds.  Who eats lima beans?  Please!  But they were that good.

On Anegada, all restaurants require not just reservations for dinner, but your specific order.  They require this by 3 or 4 pm!  You stop by, or radio in your order.

Anegada, the 'Drowned Island.'  No, that wasn't an error.  We spent two nights there!  And, it has two nicknames.  According to one cruising guide, Anegada means drowned or inundated.  We all go off on our own.  Dave and the Dockmaster kicked off the lazy day by shooting pool on the crappiest coin-operated table you ever saw, but it was so uniformly ****ed up that it evened out.  Then, Dave fished along the shore and from the dinghy, and Dockmaster booked one of the bonefish guides.  He wound up with three and saw many more, as well as catching a few jacks and barracuda.  The others went to Cow Neck beach, and reported it to be at least as nice as Loblolly, which is spectacular even when it's hard to swim and snorkel.  (When it's rough, you can still do this close to the beach, and shelling improves due to the extra water motion.  Dockmaster found a perfect sand-dollar shell, intact, and was able to get it home in one piece.)

Dinner aboard via the barebecue.  Long moonlit walk on Anegada's fine sand beach for the Dockmaster; all else stayed aboard.


- The Dockmaster, apparently stupified by the glorious sunset at Anegada.  John Gugliotta, photo.

(more pictures of January '07 will be added shortly)

Thursday: Cooper Island.  First, we stopped back at Marina Cay to top off our water tanks, pick up some staples, etc.  Got to Manchioneel Bay at Cooper early enough to have our pick of moorings, close to our favorite snorkeling spot.   Hint: it's not the main spot, and it's priviledged info so you have to come along to experience it.  The main spot is excellent, too.  We snorkelled, fished, spent some time ashore in the shade, and then relaxed on the boat before dinner aboard.

A digression is in order here to thank Karin for her outstanding help in meal planning, provisioning, and marinating.  She even pre-packaged several amazing spice combinations to use for the meals, where the Dockmaster merely brought sea-salt, black pepper and Heat Wave (multi-spice) grinders.  A self-described "foodie," Karin took our on-boad dinners from passable boat food to restaurant quality fare.  All we grunts had to do was not ruin it on the barbecue grill.   Thanks, K!

Friday: Norman Island.  Home of the famous Caves, and the Willie T, Norman Island has a large, protected anchorage called The Bight, or Pirates Bight.  It boasts exceptionally clear waters and consequently very good snorkeling.  The caves, just around the south headland, are fun to explore and are prefaced with deep vertical walls.  If you slow down and get close, you get an amazing display of small fish, creatures and coral along the wall.  Dockmaster saw a small moray eel, which came out, swam in the open briefly, and disappeared into a new crevice.  It's very rare to see them in their entirety.  (Dockmaster and Karin also saw small ones at Cooper on separate outings.  Not the same one, as we hit them at different spots.)  While Norman Island is famous for sea turtles, we saw none this time.  (Lydia saw one at the Coral Gardens, however.)

Lunch ashore.  Excellent.  There's one beach restaurant/bar, so it's hard to miss.  Roti, conch fritters with a proper little salad bed, etc.  Can't remember if we lunched or snorkeled first - no matter.

The Willie T was a bit more subdued than usual.  It's a restaurant and bar on an old sailing vessel that is semi-permanently moored in The Bight.   Its claim to fame?  Women who jump off the top naked get a free T-shirt to commemorate the event.  Men? Bupkus.  No sightings on this trip, and the overall noise level was mid-range.  (We moor or anchor on the far side of The Bight so that it's background noise and not in our faces.)  Another fine meal on board, and I helped!  This time, it was a stew of rice, veggies, and marinated chicken.

Home.  Returned to base at 10am, off boat at 11.  John, Lydia and Karin ferry over to Marina Cay for the Day, then back for one more night at the Hodges Creek Hotel, before taking the ferry to St. Thomas and their flights to the Metro NY area.

Dave and the Dockmaster were booked on the same American flight in the evening, so we had time for some bonefishing.  We spooked lots of fish that we couldn't see until they took off, and flubbed some casts at tailing fish.  This was Dave's first experience sight fishing on a flat, and he had a good eye for it.  Eventually, while untangling a bird's nest (kinked and coiled line), a fish took off with his bucktail jib the second he started pulling it back in.  Dockmaster heard the line sizzling off and saw the fish streak across the flat.  However, the jig was up - literally - when the line parted from some prior coral abrasion.

Thus concludes the January 07 trip log, but pictures will be added as soon as possible!

NEXT TRIP: British Virgin Islands, April 19-26.
only two spots left:
click here for details, or contact us!

FAQ's about our BVI trips...
What's included?
Everything except your airfare, any meals snacks or drinks ashore, alcohol, and any windsurfing/diving equipment you might wish to partake of.  We will probably have at least one sailboard ('windsurfer') along for the ride, with the cost split amongst participants expressing an interest in using it - probably $50 to $75 per person for the week. (yes, the whole week - that's pretty good!).  And, instruction from The Dockmaster is free!

Snorkeling gear is provided, although I strongly recommend bringing your own mask and snorkel, and if you have room in your luggage, fins.  Again, we can teach you how and guide you around.

Transfers to/from airport are usually not included; depends on local logistics.  We'll let you know in advance.  (Don't worry, it's cheap.)

Also: one level of ASA certification, if relevant and if earned during the course of the trip.  If you have Basic Keelboat, you'll be pursuing Basic Coastal Cruising.  If you have BCC, you'll be pursuing Bareboat Charter.  If you have Bareboat, you can earn Coastal Navigation.  If you don't already have Basic Keelboat or comparable experience, you can't earn certification on this trip, although you can participate fully with the others and still learn plenty.  Unlike too many schools these days, we won't sell you an unrealistic or impossible goal: learning to sail in a week on a large cruising boat.

Provisioning of the boat is included: breakfast, lunch, a few dinners, water, juice, soft drinks, snacks.  We accommodate special requests and diets within reason and availability (the latter of which is pretty good).  We're not cheap - expect extra virgin olive oil, spring water, leaf lettuce, real salt/pepper grinders - the good stuff.  No caviar, but no Chef Boyardee.  No Pellegrino, but no Acme Cola.  You can buy whatever you want to supplement provisions.  We don't supply alcohol, although participants can buy and consume in reasonable quantities at the discretion of the Captain/Instructor.  In other words, enjoy responsibly.

What do flights cost?
Expect to pay around $400 to $450 if booking reasonably early and flying to San Juan, transferring to the Beef Island airport in Tortola (price includes connecting flight).  Tortola is one of the largest of the British Virgin Islands, and Beef Island is adjacent over a short bridge.  Another way to fly is to go straight to St. Thomas in the US Virgin Islands and take a ferry over to Tortola, clearing customs there.  The flight is cheaper - $300 or less - and after adding in the ferry and taxi tansfers ($75), still costs a lot less than flying to San Juan.  However, the whole thing takes longer.  Airport codes: for Beef Island: EIS.  For St. Thomas: STB or STT - double check with your carrier.

What if I'm coming alone?
We'll help you pair up with someone else to share a cabin.  Some people like to sleep outside in the cockpit, although there's no guarantee that strong gusts and occasional light showers won't interrupt your sleep.  The bimini cover takes care of light rain if there's little or no wind.  If we have an odd number of people, you might get lucky and get a private cabin at the double-occupancy rate - no promises.  For smaller groups, we use smaller boats and you might not need to share.

What if I'm alone and want a private cabin?
Depends on the particulars of a given trip.  Sometimes it's a given, sometimes you pay a premium, and sometimes it's not possible.  You'll know before you book.

Feel free to call Steve with any questions at 718 885 0335, or just write back.
 


Where else do you go besides BVI?

From time to time we schedule trips in other locations for variety.  Here are some places we're considering for future trips to supplement our BVI jaunts:

        • Australia: Whitsunday Islands
        • Mediterranean: Greek Isles (just did two boats in September), Turkey or Croatia
        • South Pacific: Polynesia (Tahiti, Bora Bora, etc)
        • Caribbean: Belize
Greece trip was FULL, September 16-23.
Two Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 49's.  We sailed from Athens and did a combination of the Saronic and Argolic Gulf islands, the Peloponnisos, and the Cyclades.
Trip log with photos and video will be posted shortly.

Let us know if you're interested in one of these locations, or some other idyllic setting.  We can make it happen.


In addition to photos, we have several video clips below from our January '06 trip, with more to follow. (To see videos from a previous trip, visit our video page here, and look through our British Virgin Island series.)
 


1997 Optimist Pram Caribbean Championships, St. Thomas, USVI.  S. Card, photo

And now for our January '06 trip log!
(to see our March trip click here)
All photos & videos by Director and "Dockmaster," Cap'n Card, unless otherwise noted.

 

Above: some of the Sunsail fleet, Tortola base.
Day 1.  Fly in, meet up at base, get acquainted with the boat and each other, and finish provisioning.  The Dockmaster, Steve (author) goes bonefishing; breaks off a fish or two, which start running much sooner than the stronger but stupider false albacore he's more familiar with.  Local dinner at Fat Hog Bob's, which tastes a lot better than it sounds, named after the bay around the corner (Fat Hog Bay).  It looks out over the flat and reef, and in '03, we saw small sharks feeding on the flat in the lights.  Fat Hog's often has live music; it was the night before in this case.  We sleep aboard at the base.
 
Below: tropical flat meets fringing reef,
then Sir Frances Drake Channel with Virgins in the background

 


Day 2.  Dockmaster loses another bonefish while Captain Peter Schorr and crew get boat and chart briefings.  The base location is beautiful enough to trap you into hanging around too long, and the restaraunt/bar probably cleans up as a result. (It's expensive, and a little slow, but friendly and quite good.)  This view is from the dinghy, anchored at the drop off from the flat, right at the base.
 
Left: the 3 stages of boat life development - prostration, contemplation, and active participation.

After the last few details are attended to, we depart at noon, heading for Virgin Gorda.  Winds are east by northeast, so we're beating, but the boat handles beautifully and we make quick work of the trip through Sir Francis Drake Channel, around the Dog Islands, and then into the north entrance to Gorda Sound.

 
Dockmaster trolls off the back of the boat, under intense pressure from the crew to provide a fresh fish meal for the stern mounted barbecue grill.  He hooks up at the worst possible time: the entrance to the channel, with a serious reef on one side, not much room on the other, and a sailboat overtaking.  Somehow, he manages to get the Spanish mackerel in on his trusty spinning rod, and fillets it on the swim platform.
 
Left: looking north over Gorda Sound from the Bitter End.
Below: Karin and Peter taking in the scenery from the cockpit.


 
Day 3  Breakfast aboard on the mooring at Virgin Gorda.  Karin carved up a fresh pineapple from our provisions; Peter made eggs platters with his special home fries.  Steve, center, helped eat it all.  The rest of the crew is off digesting or preparing for our run to Anegada.

(Yes, that's a Pop Tart on the plate in the foreground.  Even without a microwave to heat them up, they can make a convenient snack.  We try to accommodate everyone!)

 
This view is from the "land ferry" (taxi) en route to The Baths.  You're looking roughly southeast down at the Bitter End.  Saba Rock is just visible to the left, and Eustatia Reef marks the boundary between sound and sea.

Our vessel is moored down there somewhere...

This was early in the taxi ride, and just one example of many spectacular open-air views we were treated to there and back.

 
At The Baths.  Karin, Shobha and Dale are dwarfed by some of the gargantuan boulders that were naturally formed and deposited here during some volcanic episode of old.  They are standing in a shallow pool that runs back past where the photographer is standing.

The Baths are a delightful day trip. There are myriad caves and tidal pools to explore on foot, and you can often find a spot to sit right down in the gentle pools and relax.  For the more adventurous, there is excellent snorkeling around and through the pools and boulders, with plenty of exotic fish to see.

Shobha had never snorkeled and was afraid of the water, but the Dockmaster was able to get her comfortable in the gentle pools of The Baths.  After an hour, Shobha almost had to be restrained from venturing off on her own after fish in shoulder deep water.

 
We got back from the Baths in time to catch a full-scale squall on the ferry, and the ferry captain killed time by giving us a tour of the southeast corner of Gorda Sound.  The captain tried to coax some drinks from the bar at Saba Rock, to no avail.  (I presume he would not have actually accepted a painkiller himself while running the boat, but maybe we could have drowned our soggy sorrows...).

Made dinner aboard that night: Peter's Most Excellent Beef Goulash.  It's surprisingly fun and especially satisfying to cook on a boat.  Everything seems to taste better aboard. 

Here's a little video clip for you - mostly candid, with the exception of a culinary interview of Peter and his pot of goulash.  This sums up the experience of relaxing with a drink and some converstion while eagerly awaiting a meal from the galley...
 

 

Peter Schorr, instructor and chef extraordinaire, cooking and mugging for the camcorder while everone else converses and listens to music in blissful ignorance. Opens with Windows Media Player.  Large file; use high speed.  Or, see the lower resolution version instead.


 
Day 4  We visit Anegada, and get a little visitor of our own.  This guy (gal?) found us pretty quickly and camped out on our barbecue grill.  He would sometimes accept a bread handout, but other times he got cranky and flew off, only to reappear on a different part of the boat, or our dinghy.  He brought a friend once, too.


 
Above is a rather crude panorama of the horizon from Anegada, sunset on Day 4.  The left picture looks out toward the main islands, but due to the distance and the low light they can't be seen.  On the right is a view toward the anchorage and Setting Point at the west end.

Dockmaster took these shots while sampling the bonefish flats east of the anchorage.  He got there by taxi, and the driver did in fact come back at the designated time to bring the Dockmaster back to meet the rest of the crew for dinner.  He kept in touch with Peter by handheld VHF and selected his dinner after Peter gave him the evening's menu for Neptune's Treasures.  Some restaurants, especially on Anegada, require not only reservations, but that you specify your dish.  When this is required, 4pm is a typical deadline.
 

 
At the dinner table, Neptune's Treasures, Anegada.  Dockmaster is shooting; Jimmy is awol.  We loved this joint.  Randy, a manager and co-owner, made us feel taken care of as friends or family.  Plus, the food, drinks and atmoshphere were excellent.  Despite there being another large party and one small one, we felt as if we had the run of the place.  We were tempted all night by the moonlit beach, and afterward, we all took a long walk on it before heading back to the boat.  Anegada has "navigable" sand beach surrounding most of the island.  You can walk from the anchorage west, around the the north shore, go the length of the island, and only lose access on the south east side.  That's a lot of beach!



A row of isolated mangroves, off the beach at Anegada.
The camera is aimed at the main islands but they're not visible.

 
Day 5

Dockmaster squeezes in a little guided bonefishing early in the morning.  This was painful, as he’d stayed up ‘til quite late the night before enjoying the beautiful moonlit weather with a cup of tea and others for company.  Didn’t get a hookup, although the guide put him on fish, and he managed to spot one before the guide did.  Of course, the guide spotted all fish first.

The others did their own thing that morning.  We had a beautiful sail back to the main islands, with winds slightly abated from the trip over.  Looking back toward Anegada after it disappeared from sight, we could make out a green tint to the underside of the clouds over the island, a reflection of the foliage – something useful for classic navigation.  Ahead, we were treated to some rainbows, and from several angles once we reached the islands and a brief shower.  Ride along with us...

Sail along with us as we finish the trip back from Anegada, from rainbow astern to resumption of sunbathing. Opens with Windows Media Player.  Large file; use high speed.  Or, ask us for a free DVD

 
Some happy scenes just after a brief shower, returning from Anegada (Steve, rainbow shot.)
Karin steering, Steve serving as jack' rack.  (Jimmy Kravchenko took this shot.)
 
We put in to Marina Cay, grabbing one of the few remaining moorings.  Everyone went ashore soon after hooking up but the Dockmaster, who opted for some board sailing, but had a less than stellar outing.  Marina Cay is gorgeous with spectacular views down on its own large fringing reef, and the channel to Beef Island, and onward to Virgin Gorda, Tortola, etc.

The restaurant there is fun, with excellent food.  It’s on an elevated porch with great views, and one can relax on the beach under canopied tables as well or on beach chairs and lounges.

Day 6

Guy goes off on a morning diving trip that leaves right from the island, while several of us do a little snorkeling before breakfast.  Too rough for good visibility, so we can it early.  Enjoyed a leisurely breakfast ashore; enjoyed the spectacular view for awhile more - you can too: check this out -
 

 

View from a hill on Marina Cay, panning across the island's large fringing reef, from southeast to the west.  Opens with Windows Media Player.  Short clip but large file; use high speed, or request a free DVD.

Otherwise, just relaxed.

Later, we waited to get to the fuel dock to top off our water, but mis-timed it; a large cruising catamaran was taking on 300 gallons of diesel as well as water, and that took awhile.  So, several students took turns jockeying our vessel around in a holding pattern, and that was excellent practice.  Then, one put us quite gently on the dock.`

After provisioning, we headed the short way over to Manchioneel (man’-chun-eel) Bay at Cooper Island.  This is an absolutely gorgeous spot, with deep but clear water, lots of palm trees along the beach, and hills rising up sharply that play tricks with the wind and often cause the fleet of moored vessels to swing in all directions, or just point out 180 from the true prevailing winds.  The island is private except for the little toe hold on the beach, but that’s all you need.

The restaurant serves fine fare here as well and the service is exemplary and friendly.  We had a stunning waitress from Romania, of all places, but everyone there was nice and helpful.

There is a watersports center located at Manchioneel Bay for those who stay for more than one quick night.
 

To be continued...

(to see our March trip click here)


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